Tiputa Island

Independent guide to Rangiroa

Tiputa is the place where you will make most of your dives, and it is also the most important passage into and out of the Laguna. It' s small and very shallow, a mythical site that attracts scuba diver from all over the globe. In Tiputa the best season for scuba dives is when the currents flow in or out slightly, a season when there is a greater chance of seeing them.

A kind of 90 degrees along the riff where the passage begins,'the angle' is the place where you will find the highest focus of fishing and maybe some'surprises'. Farther below us in the depth we could observe shark that patrolled the waters. Others who dive far below 30 metres have seen shovelheads, even if only briefly.

You can even see mantas in the summer (although they are best seen on Maupiti Island). We did this on our first one. It was the first I saw a dolphin in the great outdoors after I had seen it in confinement on Moorea Island. Drive Dives: You begin your diving at the "angle" and then you return to the Laguna.

If you are an expert diver you will do this in the centre of the Tiputa Pass, where the waters are shallow, the currents are strong and the dolphin love to game. Periodic " scuba diver are drifting along the dive site, crossing canals and conquering the emerging currents. If the currents push outwards, you reach for what's nearby (just not corals - they're poisonous) and when the currents retreat back into the Laguna, you just drive them like Superman.

For my last dives in Rangiroa we dared to return to the'angle' and the'blue' during sundown. It is the preferred season for shark to come out and catch booty, and for dolphin to come out and game. It was not a very lucky one, but it was very nice to be on guard all the way from the shore to the open sea.

The sunset also seems to be a romantically beautiful period for the pelagic species and spatting is quite a common sight for those who go diving during this week. Some of the diving centres do not go to Avatoru Pass and those who do, definitely do not go diving here every single second. On the Avatoru Pass you can see the powerful silvertipped sharks.

They look like full beasts of prey and they like to hang around the passes in the mornings. These six passengers usually travel to the Avatoru Passport at the beginning of each group. All in all, it is easily to see why the Tiputa Passport is the better of the two.

Whilst both are lacking a multitude of corals (as in Fakarava), the Tiputa Pass has more large pelagic species. Nevertheless I am very happy to have dedicated a dawn dives to the Avatoru Pass for the unbelievable sightings of the silver tip. Snorkelling is excellent from almost every place along the Laguna.

So I snorkelled around my guesthouse (Teina et Marie), where I was surrounded by a dozen blacktip shark reefs and tonnes of alfalfa. You will also be able to see many shark if you just walk along the rim of the Laguna. There is a place with a view of the Tiputa Pass (see Rangiroa guide map) where you can see dolphins.

I' ve been informed that the best moment to come here is when the currents are at their peak. Waters flowing out of the lake meet seawater trying to get in and produce small shafts that the trophies simply enjoy riding. There were only one or two remotely visible delphins, but they were sailing next to our submersible when we returned to the Laguna..... go figure.

The two small curches ('the older Romanesque' is currently being renovated) and the jetty are of interest, a good place to enjoy the Avatoru Pass and see the locals at work for supper. And if you haven't already, come to Gauguin's pearl, a dark bead factory between Avatoru and Tiputa.

Although this sector is in severe recession, it is still an important income stream for the island' s inhabitants and the largest farmers are still in the quiet Tuamotus atlls. On any island in Polynesia you can go to pearls ranches (definitely in Bora Bora, Huahine, Tahaa, Fakarava and Raiatea - but not in Moorea).

There is really nothing going on in the town on the other side of the Tiputa Pass, so all you have to do is make a stop. Get into a local boat taxicab (see section'Bypass Rangiroa') and back into the past. It has no diving centres, no resort and hardly any automobiles.

It is easy to find your own place along the laguna or coral canals, have a quick bite to eat and a few hour before your next dives. From the two lagoons trips I was informed that Lagon Bleu definitely is first. Guess it looks like the magic moment crossing the Aitutaki Laguna on the Cook Islands.

You can also go for a walk on the shore and take a picknick, as always on these trips to the water. Chez Lili Snack: a very favourite place at the Hauptkai. Puna Snack: directly opposite Lili Snacks, right on the waterfront, you will find the typical large portioned (.1800F) Polynese food and plain take-aways.

Mitivai Snack: a plain takeaway near Avatoru Village (~1300F).