Can you Visit Niihau

Capt. Cook never came sailing here.

We start to glow as we cross the shore. Circumferentially, needle marks of bright bobsleigh in the dark, like other walkers hesitantly jump from afoot. A 2,100-degree volcanic eruption will burn under the wave for a few moments until it turns into particles of dark sands in a cloudy mist.

Here, on Kilauea Volcano, on the Great Isle, we have just experienced the emergence of the world's newest company area. Making Hawaii is always new. Other Hawaiian bags stay as they always were: quiet, luxuriant, quiet. Ironically, the more travel groups and honeymoons populate Waikiki and Honolulu, the calmer the island's hinterland can seem.

Float to a secluded and secluded shore that can only be reached by ferry. That'?s the happyii of those of us who are living here. That'?s the one we' re looking for and loving. Helicopters chatter from a shaving back and leave us high up in the isolated West Maui Mountains. We are in one of the last sections of the pristine Hawaiian rain forest, on the 5,877 foot high Puu Kukui.

Regarded by the early Hawaiians as a link between heaven and Earth, this high, cloudy hill has been in the possession of the Maui Land and Pinepple firm since the end of the 19th century. By the time it turned out to be impoverished for the growing of pineapples, the enterprise transformed it into the biggest privately protected natural area in Hawaii. Since 1996, this 8,661-hectare property has housed more scarce indigenous flora and fauna than anywhere else in Hawaii, open once a year to the public - but only to the few and fortunate.

In Kapalua, this small, exquisite group meets to chat with the nature guides and then returns by helicopter about ten million years to a Hawaii that is lushly suffocating with Orchid, Daisy, beautiful prickly Silver Swords and a savage, thick abundance of fern. At the beginning of our hike, the guides explain that each footstep of the moor represent about 10,000 years of Hawaiian geologic and biologic heritage.

For the remainder of our three-mile walk, the old sludge is clinging to my boots as I' iwi feral bird species, which are deserted on most other isles, are singing all over the countryside. Niihau, the most isolated of Hawaii's main isles, sometimes seems as much of a commercial approach as fleeing, its "forbiddenness" makes it hard to visit and at the same time makes it wishful.

She didn't take in anyone unless they were castaways for 200 years. Today, in the possession of the famous Robinson paternalist breeders it is extremely remote and shelters only about 230 Hawaiians, 8,000 boar, 12,000 game ewes and no booze (the islands are dry). Many of them seldom, if ever, abandon Niihau.

This all makes a visit to the islands unforgettable, but disturbing. It' Hawaii as a wild privately owned fief. It is also Hawaii as a tourist shared dream: nice, sun-drenched, underdeveloped. If you choose to visit, Niihau Helicopters will take you from Burns Field on Kauai to Keanahaki Bay in Niihau (about $250 per capita; 808-335-3500).

After previous agreement with the chopper firm, the inhabitants of Puuwai, the biggest town, will hike over to sale delicious Niihauan Shell lei. As the funds are not used on the Isle, you have to repay for each sale by the airline that later redistributes the winnings in the from. When you are not comfortable with the Niihau regulations as established by the invisible Robinsons, you can experience the pristine natural environment of the islands by staying close - but off the coast.

Located less than a kilometer from Niihau, on the semi-submerged Lehua craters, it is one of the most beautiful and least known diving spots in Hawaii. Yes, it's the liveliest of the islands. As beautiful as any other cove in Tahiti, it craggy coastline at the base of the prickly Koolau Mountains.

Away from them - you can even have your own personal private Hwaiian Isle - you can paddle to the minute Ahu O Laka, a four-acre large isle on the edge of the cove. Ahu O Laka offers a breathtaking panoramic views of Kaneohe and the surrounding area.

Then at high water, Ahu O Laka goes away. Then, we go to the five-mile long and ten-mile long Kailua Heeia Jetty. Attempt to get to Heeia early as the pink sunshine shimmers from the wavy rocks of the Koolau series and the white-tailed tropical bird hover above in the cliff. "Ahu O Laka", as the natives call it, is located about two leagues northeast of the water.

We' re a long way from the shore. Furious wounds of dry, glossy, black volcanic rock have torn the mountain slope and are dry in broad strips where no growth of green. Spiny saplings line these lavender trails, along with stringy Ohiabrees. It is Hawaii. The majority of the pilgrims make a day's ascent to the top at dawn.

Just as impressing, though much less visited, is the smouldering, ashen caldera we are heading for, halfway up the hill, the site of the volcano's last major volcanic explosion. Now a craggy, dirty caldera is rising right in front of us. An infamous whirlpool of 200-year-old volcanic ash covers its tip like dry icing. It'?s down somewhere, blowjob.

Here the finger of the volcano reaches into the water. It' the search of the happy anniversary. It was the one we just dumped from the craters that made it. Your own private beachside. Kauais Na Pali coastline - in travel guides unavoidably referred to as the "rugged" Na Pali coastline - stands for paradise from King Kong to Gilligan's Island.

In front of us is the Milolii Bay, with no people. Most secluded of the Na Pali is also the most beautiful one. Crayon feathered bird fly through the tree. In order to organize your own offshore rafting, call Captain Zodiac Raft Expeditions (800-422-7824 or 808-826-9371). Departures from Kauai's Tunnel Strand at agreed hours are from $68-$120.